A little back ground music please. In 2013 we began upgrading electrical charging and storage equipment. The first step was to increase the size of the house bank. We had four golf cart batteries giving us about 420 amp hours of capacity. Fryedaze uses about 200 amp-hrs on the hook so the batteries were only good for one day without charge. Tech note: you should not discharge lead acid batteries more than 50% if you want them to last a while. We pulled the old batteries and installed eight batteries for 940 amp-hrs. Next we increased the engine alternators from 55 amps each to 150 amps each. This capacity allow us to charge the big bank back to full capacity in 3-4 hours after a normal discharge. That process is good if we cruise each day. If we stay on the hook for more than two days we would need to run the generator to charge the batteries to make up for our normal 200 amp-hr a day loads. I would rather not run the generator each day, even though it is very quiet and only burns 1/2 gallon per hour. Sooooo in comes the need for solar. With solar panels making up for most of our load the batteries can stay charged up and charging from other sources may not be need or at least wont be needed for several days. My apologies to the ladies who are now yawning from all the engineering mumbo jumbo.
The first step was to determine what size panels would fit on the bimini and how much power we could get up there. The answer was, three 150 watt semi-flexible panels for a total of 450 watt(in theory at the equator). A Morningstar TS-MPPT 45 was chosen to match the potential 40 amp output of the panels. This controller optimizes battery charging with multi stage charging to increase battery perfromance and life.
http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/tristar-mppt/
The remote monitor for the Tristar MPPT controller was added to the package so we would have lots of useful data in the boat. Us NUKES love meters and data! Another cool feature of the system is that it stores data and can be downloaded to a laptop. MORE DATA!
The install begins. The first step is to mount the charge controller inside the bridge enclosure. The double pole breaker on top is wired so the positive lead coming from the solar panels is on one pole and the output of the charge controller feeding the battery is on the other pole. This setup will completely isolate the charge controller on a fault on either side. I stole the idea from a "rag bagger" website.
The remote panel was mounted across from the galley next to the battery monitors. Yes. yes I know, that top battery monitor was install off center by 1/8".
Next the cable had to be run to the top of the canvas. Holes were drilled in the bimini frame support to make the install a little neater. Chrome wire snake skin was used to match the stainless support and protect the cables from the sun.
http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/chromesleeving.php The cables are #10 solar panel wire purchased on Amazon.The cables are hidden in the canvas, zippered pocket that holds the canvas to the support frame. The cables go through holes in the canvas that lead to pockets on the roof made to act as cable runs. The guys at Quantum Sails did and excellent job installing the Velcro lapels and fitting the panels to the canvas. If you look at the last picture you can see the stitching for the Velcro and the lapels.
SEX BOLTS, I knew it would finally come to this. We laied the panels on the bed for a test fit. Huh, no no Dave keep it 'G' rated. The panels have Velcro on both sides. The center panels is Velcroed to the outside panels and the eight stainless sex bolts were inserted through grommets to tie them all together.
Sex Bolt
A few shots of the nice work that Quantum Sails did on the new canvas.
Solar Panel install day is finally here. We have been waiting for a warm day and Sunday it finally broke 50. My trusty assistant is rarin to go. Placing the panels on the roof could have been a real PIA due to their size. They are large. If you look at the previous pictures you can see that they covered a queen size bed. The boss at Quatum Sails clued me into the trouble I could have just trying to slide them up and the Velcro grabbing the panels before they were in place. So Bets and I taped plastic to the bottom of the panels, taped the lapels open, slid them in place and then pulled the plastic out from underneath. Piece of cake.
The lapels were adjusted to ensure they did not cover the solar panel cells and potentially reduce output. Scary how old that guys hand looks. Its the left one mom, you know the one you shorted me the pigment in :-)
Look at the ice on the cove. There were a few days this winter when the boat was locked into the ice. I couldn't move the boat
Last of the wiring in progress. The three positive and the three negative leads from the panels went to their respective 3 to 1 MC4 connectors. Each connector was greased with dielectric connection grease to ensure the connections don't degrade. The wire runs worked well. The big MC4 connectors made it a little tight in their pocket.
Sex bolts and butt shots, I think google search is going to send this site to the wrong people.
All buttoned up!
And the results are in! At 3:30pm on an early March sunny sky the panels are putting out 232 watts. I think that pretty good for this time of year with the sun angle. We will get more as the sun angle improves. I really don't expect more than about 350 watt at peak sun here in Maryland. If we get that we will be in good shape. Bets an I had fun working together to get this project done. It was an excellent day. Now back to the boat and get that Genset cooler cleaned.
UPDATE 5/15/2015
After about 45 day of operation the panels have work well. The battery charger has been off for over a month. I have run into an issue with the panels and the canvas relaxing and the panel took the shape of a stretched out 'M' instead of a slow smooth arc. We purchase (3) 24"x48"x1/4" plexiglass sheets to slide under the panels. It looks like that did the trick, but time will tell I didn't get pictures but here is a drawing to help explain.
